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    Hey

    So i've got a few questions of my own, the first one that I have is..... If you find a leaky fire hose during pressure testing, how would you fix it? And secondly, anyone got any tips on mooring for big ass ships as it's something that's always terrified me is mooring and I was looking for peoples tip on how they do it I.E Order of lines ashore, tensioning lines and what to do if a line gets "pingy" tight. I've only ever let go by myself, never tied up so I'm a little nervous for when the time comes

  • #2
    Originally posted by Martyboy View Post
    Hey

    So i've got a few questions of my own, the first one that I have is..... If you find a leaky fire hose during pressure testing, how would you fix it? And secondly, anyone got any tips on mooring for big ass ships as it's something that's always terrified me is mooring and I was looking for peoples tip on how they do it I.E Order of lines ashore, tensioning lines and what to do if a line gets "pingy" tight. I've only ever let go by myself, never tied up so I'm a little nervous for when the time comes
    It really depends where the cut in the hose is the size of the hole and stuff if it's quite near the end of the hose you can just cut the hose and re-seal it and the coupling. Sometimes you can just re-seal it with a glue but this should only really be a temp fix and you should order a new hose.


    It's really up to the captain how they like to moor the ship some like to do it one way another like to do it another.

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    • #3
      I liked mooring the anchor handler as a cadet as I could just hand the linesman the rope. When you send your stern or head lines, do you send the outside line first and then work along to the quayside line?

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      • #4
        This really depends how fat and lazy the mooring men are sometimes they can manage two lines at a time and other times they can only be bothered with one line at a time. When you have 6 lines to send ashore you sometimes have to shout at them even when they don't speak English !!

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        • #5
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7m0jPmsDgU I thoguht this was a good video Not very educational, but still cool

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          • #6
            From experience generally you'll send a spring line ashore first then play around to your ass is content with the others.

            You've probable already worked out that it's best to send your lines on the main drums first and ensure they are the last to let go.

            Drum ends and anything your shoving to the bits last.
            ?Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn?t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.?

            ? Mark Twain
            myBlog | @alistairuk | flickr | youtube Views and opinions expressed are those of myself and not representative of any employer or other associated party.

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            • #7
              Yeah its things like that i'm looking for as ive done stations with officers when I was a cadet and seen it done like that, but hadn't really thought about why haha my other concern is what to do when the lines become really tight and you pay out then the ships off the berth, do you just "nudge" it back in with the lines until shes along side again?

              Not going back to sea until April time and hoping to have done every seagull course I can get my hand on by then, but still nervous about it Guess it's just first trip nerves

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Martyboy View Post
                Yeah its things like that i'm looking for as ive done stations with officers when I was a cadet and seen it done like that, but hadn't really thought about why haha my other concern is what to do when the lines become really tight and you pay out then the ships off the berth, do you just "nudge" it back in with the lines until shes along side again?

                Not going back to sea until April time and hoping to have done every seagull course I can get my hand on by then, but still nervous about it Guess it's just first trip nerves
                Depends if you have self tensioning winches or not.

                There's no need for ropes to be rock hard - generally you'll stop when it's sufficiently tight to hold - or on drum ends it will normally start to slip if it only has the 3 turns.

                If it's a port with tidal range you'll constantly have to have people there to adjust them anyway or you'll develop list / upset the gangway. (Obviously more of a hassle on certain ship types then others)
                ?Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn?t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.?

                ? Mark Twain
                myBlog | @alistairuk | flickr | youtube Views and opinions expressed are those of myself and not representative of any employer or other associated party.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yea, I remember taking a deck watch in Salahlah which has a huge range. They have this system of magnets on the quayside which are switched on to hold the ship along side but as cargo had almost finished they were switched off and as i ran aft the rope was at 300% so i paid out and the arse end cane off the berth, but for some reason the mate had ran onto the quay so I had the lines aft myself, it was all very stressful!! Managed to get her back along side and the third mate arrived, then after 15 mins it all happened again and the rope pinged again, so I dont like mooring :P

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                  • #10
                    If the hose is leaking near the coupling you can cut it back and rebind it using a manual hose binding machine like the one shown in the following link:

                    http://www.deltafire.co.uk/fire-hose-binding-machine/
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVFezy33SHU

                    If you don't have a hose binding machine, or if it's leaking in the middle of the hose you should replace the hose with a spare, and order more spares if you don't have enough. If you haven't got any spares, and the leak is near the coupling, then you can also use a jubilee clip as a temporary fix until you get replacement hoses or a hose binding machine to fix it properly.

                    It's also a good idea to keep a couple of old fire hoses that have been leaking for everyday use around the vessel, as it is quite often deck crew using fire hoses in a good condition for day to day jobs that causes there condition to deteriorate. Obviously make sure you clearly mark that they are not to be used for firefighting purposes and are kept separate from good hoses.

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                    • #11
                      Re Mooring: as Alistair says generally springs ashore first. Unless you have strong tidal current then you may want to run springs and heads first or springs and sterns first. Then breast lines to keep the ship alongside and then everything else! lol

                      Don't be tempted to over tighten the lines initially, all you'll do is put unnecessary weight on which isn't good for the lines or rollers and you may bows the ship in at one end.

                      To boldly go.....
                      Forum Administrator
                      OfficerCadet.com

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                      • #12
                        Agree with posts about the fire hose, if it's near the end you can crop and rebind, just make sure the overall length still complies with regs. Usually they are longer but if it's been cropped a couple of times before it might be too short.

                        Mooring is very dependant on ship port, number and type of lines. Springs first is almost always the case, stems any tide and keeps her lined up then the other lines hold her in. Make sure you liaise fwd and aft to pull breasts together or you may end up with now or stern out!! And make sure when putting brake on it's to the mark and not as tight as you biggest AB can turn the handle!!
                        If you can't laugh, you shouldn't have joined!!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Silvertop View Post
                          Agree with posts about the fire hose, if it's near the end you can crop and rebind, just make sure the overall length still complies with regs. Usually they are longer but if it's been cropped a couple of times before it might be too short.

                          Mooring is very dependant on ship port, number and type of lines. Springs first is almost always the case, stems any tide and keeps her lined up then the other lines hold her in. Make sure you liaise fwd and aft to pull breasts together or you may end up with now or stern out!! And make sure when putting brake on it's to the mark and not as tight as you biggest AB can turn the handle!!
                          That is a good point actually... when was the last time you saw anyone get a measuring tape out and measure a hose.

                          Without knowing it in the unlikely scenario a hose could have been cropped 20 times and be under regulation length, although cropping it will only take a little bit off, doing it numerous times certainly would. Guess it would be better to get hoses that were a good 0.5 - 1 m longer than regulation length as an insurance policy.

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                          • #14
                            I think if you order set lengths from reputable suppliers they do come with a little bit 'extra' to allow for fitting etc. a good easy check is to lay a few out together to compare them before getting out the tape measure!!
                            If you can't laugh, you shouldn't have joined!!

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